Saint Laurent Spring-Summer 2025 Collection: Where Vaccarello’s Muses Embody “Empowered Femininity

Once again drawing inspiration from the fashion ethos and personal style of founder Yves Saint Laurent, Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello presented a collection that exudes “empowered femininity” on the runway for Spring-Summer 2025.

Eight years into his tenure as Creative Director of Saint Laurent, Vaccarello returned to the brand’s Left Bank headquarters at 37 Rue de Bellechasse to showcase this collection. Throughout the evening, models walked the catwalk draped in deep Yves Klein blue—a tribute to Yves’ famous Marrakech garden—complemented by golden architectural details suspended in the air. This set the stage for a collection that is luxurious, bold, and powerful, celebrating the assertive style and energy of the modern woman.

Under the Paris night sky, Vaccarello offered a fresh perspective on “empowered femininity” that remained alluring through eclecticism and the personal style of fashion legend Yves. The collection drew inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent and his muse, Loulou de la Falaise. From sharply tailored oversized suits and masculine bomber jackets to elegant trench coats and flowing bohemian styles, as well as glamorous blouses adorned with large gemstone buttons and lace-trimmed mini skirts, Vaccarello explored various aspects of femininity to reflect the multifaceted, stylish woman of Saint Laurent.

The show opened with designs deeply rooted in Yves’ personal style, featuring his signature oversized glasses and tuxedo-inspired suits that embody his philosophy of tailored “masculinity” for women. Tailored pieces in charcoal, black, or plum showcased Yves’ characteristic style, featuring double-breasted blazers and high-waisted, wide-leg trousers, elegantly tailored to avoid a sloppy appearance, paired with polished button-up shirts. Notably, Vaccarello introduced a fresh complexity to these iconic tuxedos by layering them with oversized trench coats, bold military-inspired leather jackets, or luxurious silk bombers, creating a striking contrast in design and materials.

After the tailored suits, the collection shifted to a revival of boho chic with airy tiered chiffon dresses and paisley-print tunic blouses paired with floor-length maxi skirts, topped with edgy biker jackets. These designs were accessorized with beaded necklaces and chunky bracelets, paying homage to Loulou de la Falaise, Yves’ muse and close collaborator. Although these pieces were simpler, they maintained a sense of elegance and reflected Vaccarello’s ability to balance masculine and feminine energy.

The finale showcased a remarkable turn in the Spring-Summer 2025 collection, featuring 15 designs inspired by the classic style of the 1980s. Through a bold and sensual fashion lens, Vaccarello combined sumptuous fabrics like brocade and lace with vibrant colors, creating a dazzling conclusion to the collection. Shimmering cropped jackets with intricate floral patterns, seductive lace tops under mini dresses with wide necklines, and a striking interplay of colors and materials conveyed a refreshing take on women’s fashion, a vision that Monsieur Laurent expertly refined.

Each piece was accessorized with oversized sunglasses, wide ties, colorful bead necklaces, chunky gold bracelets, and sparkling embellished shoes. Collectively, these elements portrayed a powerful and commanding presence while remaining alluring and sophisticated. In a fashion landscape increasingly leaning towards minimalism, Vaccarello’s embrace of “complete” styles created a captivating allure for the Spring-Summer 2025 collection of Saint Laurent.

A notable aspect of the Spring-Summer 2025 collection is that each of the 49 showcased designs is named after important women in Yves’ life and the brand’s history, as well as in Vaccarello’s journey. Notable names include Betty (Catroux), Carla (Bruni), Katoucha, Bettina, and Iman.

The Spring-Summer 2025 collection from Saint Laurent and Vaccarello transcends a mere fashion show; it is a return to roots that honors the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent and the fashion house he meticulously built. Furthermore, it serves as a fashion manifesto, vividly portraying the “muses” of Saint Laurent and the design philosophy of the French fashion house.